A Week in the Swiss Alps: Train Routes and Mountain Villages

The Glacier Express: Zermatt to St. Moritz

The Glacier Express bills itself as the "slowest express train in the world," and the 8-hour journey through 291 bridges and 91 tunnels earns the title. The panoramic windows frame a constantly shifting movie of snow-capped peaks, deep gorges, and meadows so green they look digitally enhanced.

I booked first class for the extra-wide seats and included lunch service — a three-course meal served at your seat as the train crosses the Oberalp Pass at 2,033 meters. The wine glasses have angled bases to compensate for the curves. Book at least two weeks ahead in summer; the best seats (right side heading to St. Moritz) sell out fast.

Lauterbrunnen Valley: 72 Waterfalls

Lauterbrunnen sits in a glacial valley so dramatic that Tolkien reportedly used it as inspiration for Rivendell. Seventy-two waterfalls cascade down the sheer cliff walls, including Staubbach Falls, which drops 297 meters in a single free-fall plume visible from the village center.

Take the cable car to Mürren, a car-free village perched on a cliff shelf across the valley. The views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau from Mürren's terrace restaurants are the finest in the Bernese Oberland. A plate of rösti with melted raclette cheese and a cold beer here costs about CHF 25 — expensive, but you're paying for the panorama.

What It Actually Costs

Switzerland is expensive, but it doesn't have to be ruinous. My seven-day trip cost roughly CHF 2,100 (about $2,400) including a Swiss Travel Pass (CHF 440 for 8 days), budget hotels (CHF 80-120/night), meals mixing restaurant lunches with grocery store dinners, and all cable car and activity fees.

The biggest savings came from the Swiss Travel Pass, which covers not only trains but also boats, buses, and a 50% discount on most mountain railways. Without it, individual tickets would have cost nearly double. Pack lunch for hiking days — a supermarket sandwich, fruit, and chocolate bar costs CHF 8 versus CHF 25+ at a mountain restaurant.